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- From: twcaps@tennyson.lbl.gov (Terry Chan)
- Subject: Re: Etymology of junk food names
-
- In article <1992Jun18.162539.9714@sbcs.sunysb.edu> prasad@sbcs.sunysb.edu
- (Prasad Rao) writes:
-
- +What is the origin of the names "hot dog" and "hamburgher"?
-
- Charles Panati traces the origins of "hamburger" as follows:
-
- 1. Origins in a medieval culinary practice popular among the Tartars,
- who shredded the low quality (i.e., tough) beef. Whence we get
- steak tartare (they didn't use capers and eggs though).
-
- 2. Russian Tartars introduced it to Germany prior to the 14th century.
- The Germans mixed in regional spices and the dish was eaten both
- cooked and raw and became common among the poorer classes. In
- Hamburg, the dish acquired the name "Hamburg steak" during a visit
- by a visiting Irish chieftan who was an ancestor of John F.
- Kennedy (well, I might be joking about the Chieftan part).
-
- 3. The dish went to England and met with Dr. J.H. Salisbury. This guy
- was a food reformer and physician (popular combo in those days, it
- seems) who was big on shredding all foods prior to consumption to
- improve digestability. He was also big on eating beef 3 times a
- day, washed down by hot water. Now we get Salisbury steak which
- was no big deal until Swanson over promoted it (well I might be
- semi-kidding about Swanson).
-
- 4. Concurrently, Hamburg steak travelled with German immigrants to
- the US in the 1880s and we get "hamburger steak," then "hamburger."
- The timing of the bun business is not known though Panati says that
- by the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis, it was already a sandwich
- and was also known as "hamburg."
-
- Regarding the "hot dog", this delicacy is dated back to 1500 B.C. in
- Babylonia (I guess that explains the taste of many of the modern ones).
- Suffice it to say that stuff meat in animal intestines was (and still is)
- a pretty popular culinary approach.
-
- Some highlights though, included the big (heh) role played by sausage
- in the Roman festival Lupercalia where Panati says other writers alluded
- that the sausage may have played a role beyond mere foodstuff. Anyway,
- the early Roman Catholic Church made sausage eating a sin and Constantine
- banned its consumption.
-
- In the 1850s, the Germans made thick, soft, and fatty sausages from which
- we get "frank." In 1852, the butcher's guild in Frankfurt introduced a
- spiced and smoked sausage which was packed in a thin casing and they
- called it a "frankfurter" after their hometown. The sausage had a
- slightly curved shape supposedly due to the coaxing of a butcher who
- had a popular dachshund. The frankfurter was also known as a "dachshund
- sausage" and this name came with it to America.
-
- The two Frankfurters who introduced the frankfurter to the US were
- Antoine Feuchtwanger (in St. Louis, Mo.) and Charles Feltman, a baker
- who had a push cart on New York's Coney Island. Supposedly, Feltman's
- pie business couldn't compete with the hot dishes sold by the inns
- there, and decided to sell one kind of small hot sandwich, the frankfurter,
- since his cart couldn't handle anything fancier or offer greater variety.
- He served them with traditional mustard and sauerkraut, it was a hit,
- and he opened Feltman's German Beer Garden. In 1913, he hired Nathan
- Handwerker to help him out at US$11/week.
-
- Two frankfurter fanatics, Eddie Condon and Jimmy Durante (yep, the ones),
- were pissed that Feltman raised his franks to US$0.10 and convinced
- Handwerker to break off and sell 'em for US$0.05. And that's what
- that traitor, er, canny businessman did in 1916. So he opened a concession
- using his wife's Ida recipe. He promoted it by offering free dogs to
- the docs at Coney Island Hospital on condition that they eat at his
- stand with their dress whites and prominently displayed stethoscopes
- (obviously, the current of ethics in the medical profession go back
- a ways). This was a hit.
-
- As an aside, Handwerker then Clara Bowtinelli, who bagged out and
- turned down possible fame and fortune toiling in a dog joint to
- become Clara "The It Girl" Bow.
-
- Anyways, the sausage was known as frankfurters, red hots, dachshund
- sausages, wieners, etc. By this time, there was a guy, Harry Stevens,
- who owned a refreshment concessionaire who had made popular doggies
- at NYC baseball games. His vendors supposedly called out "Get your
- red-hot dachshund sausages!" (You can see why this became shorted
- later on.)
-
- In the summer of 1906, a Hearst paper cartoonist, Tad Dorgan was inspired
- by the shape of the sausage and the calls of the vendors to sketch a
- cartoon with a real dachshund, smeared with mustard, in a bun. Supposedly,
- while he was at the office refining the cartoon, he couldn't spell the
- name of the damn dog so he made the caption "get your hot dogs."
-
- Anyway, this guy Dorgan was considered a major cartoonist and has had
- retrospectives to his work, and historians, archivists, and curators
- generally credit him with the name, but the supposed cartoon has never
- been found.
-
- BTW, the US produces something like 16.5 billion hot dogs per annum.
-
-
- Terry "Gimme an 21 without the motor" Chan
-